Dragon Gate
And Western Hills
The
Western Hills, located at the west bank of the Dianchi
Lake, is set in mountains well covered by evergreen
woods and filled with sweet songs by lovely birds.
The Western Hills, over 2,500 metres above sea
level, also called the Green Peacock Mountain,
refers to a range of five mountains stretching
over 40 kilometres. Seen from afar, its undulating
skyline resembles a graceful young lady sleeping
on her back, hence the name of the "sleeping
beauty". Its luxuriant trees and bamboos
set off splendid Huating Temple, Taihua Temple,
Sanqing Monastery and the Dragon Gate. In The
Annals of Mountains and Rivers of Yunnan, Yang
Shen, a Ming-dynasty poet praised the Western
Hills thus:
The azure mountains with precipices
thousands of chi high reflected on vast rippling
blue waters at its foot in the bright moonlight,
and flying clouds skimming over high above, are
indeed one of the best scenic spots in Yunnan.
Lying 16 kilometres west of
Kunming City, the Western Hills can be reached
by bus, first westward along the Burma Road to
Gaoqiao, and then southward along the western
shore of Dianchi Lake.
Datiange or The Dragon Gate
Datiange
or the Dragon Gate, a temple eyrie on the side of a
sheer cliff is the best place to get some idea of how
magnificent the sights are. Standing at the Dragon Gate,
you can enjoy the beauty of the vast Dianchi Lake. It
was said, "Once on the Dragon Gate, your fortune
will be made." "Visiting Kunming without ascending
the Dragon Gate is as regretful as visiting Hanzhou
without seeing the West Lake."
The Dragon Gate is actually
the general name of a series of spectacular caves
and grottoes carved on the cliff between the Cave
Leading to a Wonderland (Bieyoudongtian) and the
Cave Leading to Heavens (Datiange) Walking up
the steps from the Filial Calf Spring, going past
the winding stone path, you get to an open terrace
at the Phoenix Rock out of which the Cloud Sea,
the Stone Forest and Laojundian (also called the
Old Stone Room) grottoes are carved. The Suspended
Corridor, starting from "the Stunning View
of Putuo" via Benevolent Clouds Cave (Ciyundong,
the second stone room) to Yunhua Cave with a statue
of Guanying (Avalokitesvara) in it, is a tunnel
chipped out of a living rock. At the far end,
it opens out through a stone archway. The characters
"Long Men" (Dragon Gate) are inscribed
in red and gold upon the arch. A shrine in the
rock wall, called the Cave Leading to Heavens,
holds the lively golden image of Kui Xing, the
Patron God of Scholars. He is flanked by Wen Chang,
the God of Literature, and Guan Yu, the god of
War andjustice. Ascending the Dragon Gate, looking
far into the distance by the railing, enjoying
the wide expanse of Dianchi Lake with glittering
waves and sailing boats, you would feel relaxed,
happy and carefree.
The marvelous Dragon Gate Grotto
complex was chiseled out through 72 years hard
work, much appreciated in the mystical story widely
circulating among the people.
In the Qing Dynasty, a man named
Wu Laiqing, an improverished Daoist monk from
the Lower Fishing Village, built bridges and paved
roads in Kunming striving for virtue. And as an
ascetic, he unhesitatingly accepted the proposal
for chipping a stone path to save the people from
the danger of going up on the plank road built
along the face of the cliff. Working day and night,
rain or shine, he inched upward from Sanqingge
Temple to the Old Stone Room. Before long, on
the Pheonix Rock, Wu Laiqing continued to carve
the "Stunning View of Putuo" and the
Benevolent Clouds Cave. These two wonderful and
difficult projects took him 14 years to complete.
The tunnel between the Benevolent Clouds Cave
and Yunhua Cave was carved in 1840 by masons upon
the invitation of Yang Rulan, and it was completed
in 9 years. Yang Jitai continued his father's
project. Aided by 70 masons from the foot of the
mountain, they chipped out of the living rock
the Cave Leading to Heavens including the archway
of the Dragon Gate, one platform and numerous
stone completes, images, incense burners, candlesticks,
offerings, etc. The whole project of the Cave
Leading to Heavens was not accomplished until
1853. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Zhao Heqing,
a calligrapher, expressed in a couplet inscribed
on the facade of the cave his emotion and feeling
of ascending the Dragon Gate.
Each
step arduous and in danger,
Steadfastly you have to stand your ground;
Being high up in the firmament,
You had better set at ease your mind.
Such grand project and magnificent
secenery are naturally associated with beautiful
legends.
Long long ago, a legend runs,
there was a couple of lovers living in the Dragon
Gate Village at the foot of Luohanshan Mountain.
They determined to follow the example of Da Yu,
who in history chipped a Dragon Gate in the north
of China, by chiselling another dragon gate on
the cliff of Luohanshan Mountain for the benefit
of the local people and the future generations.
They agreed to get married only after the accomplishment
of the project. So the young man worked day and
night, rain or shine, and the beautiful girl sent
him food and drinking water, and washed clothes
for him. Nobody knew how many summers and winters
had passed before they finished chipping the Cave
Leading to Heavens - the Dragon Gate. However
when carving the tip of a calligraphy brush held
in Kui Xing's right hand, unfortunately he broke
it. The perfect consummation he had painstakingly
worked for vanished in a flash. He was so grieved
that he jumped down from the Dragon Gate ....
Now the tip of the brush we
see is not carved out of the original rock, but
one that has been glued onto the brush.
Seeing her lover jump down the
cliffi the girl was so heartbroken that all day
long she wept in deep grief. Her tears converged
into the waters of Dianchi Lake. When he tears
dried up, she turned into the beautiful Western
Hills lying forever along the shore of Dianchi
Lake.
It is a custom of the local
people to visit the Western Hills on the 3rd of
the third month by the lunar calendar. The spring
outing on that day originated from Shangsijie
Festival of the Warring States Period. During
the Three Kingdoms period, the kingdom of Wei
adopted the Shangsijie Festival as the day for
spring outing and offering sacrifices to gods
and ancestors. In the Tang Dynasty, the festival
became a very popular spring outing day on a large
scale. Du Fu, a famous Tang-Dynasty poet depicted
the scene in the poem entitled Beauties Going
For An Outing: "Crisp weather on the 3rd
of the third moon, in the capital Chang'an, riverbanks
are thronged with hundreds of beauties... ".
In late spring, a hundred flowers are in bloom,
Kunming, with her pleasant weather, is bathed
in luxuriant verdant. Each year on the 3rd of
the third moon, dressed in their holiday best,
hundreds and thousands of people from various
nationalities swarm to the Western Hills. People
earty laughter and merry folk songs can be heard
everywhere.
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