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Dragon Gate
And Western Hills
The
Western Hills, located at the west bank of the
Dianchi Lake, is set in mountains well covered
by evergreen woods and filled with sweet songs
by lovely birds.
The Western Hills, over 2,500 metres above
sea level, also called the Green Peacock
Mountain, refers to a range of five mountains
stretching over 40 kilometres. Seen from
afar, its undulating skyline resembles a
graceful young lady sleeping on her back,
hence the name of the "sleeping beauty".
Its luxuriant trees and bamboos set off
splendid Huating Temple, Taihua Temple,
Sanqing Monastery and the Dragon Gate. In
The Annals of Mountains and Rivers of Yunnan,
Yang Shen, a Ming-dynasty poet praised the
Western Hills thus:
The azure mountains with
precipices thousands of chi high reflected
on vast rippling blue waters at its foot
in the bright moonlight, and flying clouds
skimming over high above, are indeed one
of the best scenic spots in Yunnan.
Lying 16 kilometres west
of Kunming City, the Western Hills can be
reached by bus, first westward along the
Burma Road to Gaoqiao, and then southward
along the western shore of Dianchi Lake.
Datiange or The Dragon Gate
Datiange
or the Dragon Gate, a temple eyrie on the side
of a sheer cliff is the best place to get some
idea of how magnificent the sights are. Standing
at the Dragon Gate, you can enjoy the beauty of
the vast Dianchi Lake. It was said, "Once
on the Dragon Gate, your fortune will be made."
"Visiting Kunming without ascending the Dragon
Gate is as regretful as visiting Hanzhou without
seeing the West Lake."
The Dragon Gate is actually
the general name of a series of spectacular
caves and grottoes carved on the cliff between
the Cave Leading to a Wonderland (Bieyoudongtian)
and the Cave Leading to Heavens (Datiange)
Walking up the steps from the Filial Calf
Spring, going past the winding stone path,
you get to an open terrace at the Phoenix
Rock out of which the Cloud Sea, the Stone
Forest and Laojundian (also called the Old
Stone Room) grottoes are carved. The Suspended
Corridor, starting from "the Stunning
View of Putuo" via Benevolent Clouds
Cave (Ciyundong, the second stone room)
to Yunhua Cave with a statue of Guanying
(Avalokitesvara) in it, is a tunnel chipped
out of a living rock. At the far end, it
opens out through a stone archway. The characters
"Long Men" (Dragon Gate) are inscribed
in red and gold upon the arch. A shrine
in the rock wall, called the Cave Leading
to Heavens, holds the lively golden image
of Kui Xing, the Patron God of Scholars.
He is flanked by Wen Chang, the God of Literature,
and Guan Yu, the god of War andjustice.
Ascending the Dragon Gate, looking far into
the distance by the railing, enjoying the
wide expanse of Dianchi Lake with glittering
waves and sailing boats, you would feel
relaxed, happy and carefree.
The marvelous Dragon Gate
Grotto complex was chiseled out through
72 years hard work, much appreciated in
the mystical story widely circulating among
the people.
In the Qing Dynasty, a
man named Wu Laiqing, an improverished Daoist
monk from the Lower Fishing Village, built
bridges and paved roads in Kunming striving
for virtue. And as an ascetic, he unhesitatingly
accepted the proposal for chipping a stone
path to save the people from the danger
of going up on the plank road built along
the face of the cliff. Working day and night,
rain or shine, he inched upward from Sanqingge
Temple to the Old Stone Room. Before long,
on the Pheonix Rock, Wu Laiqing continued
to carve the "Stunning View of Putuo"
and the Benevolent Clouds Cave. These two
wonderful and difficult projects took him
14 years to complete. The tunnel between
the Benevolent Clouds Cave and Yunhua Cave
was carved in 1840 by masons upon the invitation
of Yang Rulan, and it was completed in 9
years. Yang Jitai continued his father's
project. Aided by 70 masons from the foot
of the mountain, they chipped out of the
living rock the Cave Leading to Heavens
including the archway of the Dragon Gate,
one platform and numerous stone completes,
images, incense burners, candlesticks, offerings,
etc. The whole project of the Cave Leading
to Heavens was not accomplished until 1853.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Zhao Heqing,
a calligrapher, expressed in a couplet inscribed
on the facade of the cave his emotion and
feeling of ascending the Dragon Gate.
Each
step arduous and in danger,
Steadfastly you have to stand your ground;
Being high up in the firmament,
You had better set at ease your mind.
Such grand project and
magnificent secenery are naturally associated
with beautiful legends.
Long long ago, a legend
runs, there was a couple of lovers living
in the Dragon Gate Village at the foot of
Luohanshan Mountain. They determined to
follow the example of Da Yu, who in history
chipped a Dragon Gate in the north of China,
by chiselling another dragon gate on the
cliff of Luohanshan Mountain for the benefit
of the local people and the future generations.
They agreed to get married only after the
accomplishment of the project. So the young
man worked day and night, rain or shine,
and the beautiful girl sent him food and
drinking water, and washed clothes for him.
Nobody knew how many summers and winters
had passed before they finished chipping
the Cave Leading to Heavens - the Dragon
Gate. However when carving the tip of a
calligraphy brush held in Kui Xing's right
hand, unfortunately he broke it. The perfect
consummation he had painstakingly worked
for vanished in a flash. He was so grieved
that he jumped down from the Dragon Gate
....
Now the tip of the brush
we see is not carved out of the original
rock, but one that has been glued onto the
brush.
Seeing her lover jump
down the cliffi the girl was so heartbroken
that all day long she wept in deep grief.
Her tears converged into the waters of Dianchi
Lake. When he tears dried up, she turned
into the beautiful Western Hills lying forever
along the shore of Dianchi Lake.
It is a custom of the local
people to visit the Western Hills on the 3rd of
the third month by the lunar calendar. The spring
outing on that day originated from Shangsijie
Festival of the Warring States Period. During
the Three Kingdoms period, the kingdom of Wei
adopted the Shangsijie Festival as the day for
spring outing and offering sacrifices to gods
and ancestors. In the Tang Dynasty, the festival
became a very popular spring outing day on a large
scale. Du Fu, a famous Tang-Dynasty poet depicted
the scene in the poem entitled Beauties Going
For An Outing: "Crisp weather on the 3rd
of the third moon, in the capital Chang'an, riverbanks
are thronged with hundreds of beauties... ".
In late spring, a hundred flowers are in bloom,
Kunming, with her pleasant weather, is bathed
in luxuriant verdant. Each year on the 3rd of
the third moon, dressed in their holiday best,
hundreds and thousands of people from various
nationalities swarm to the Western Hills. People
earty laughter and merry folk songs can be heard
everywhere.
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